Last week, Desi posted on Instagram a beautiful photo of stock simmering on her stove. Shortly after, Kate and I commented that we were both "stock cheaters." While Kate was inspired to start making her own, I continued with my own diatribe that "I felt like it wasn't worth the effort due to the amount of stock I use each week, blah blah blah."Naturally, as soon as I'd commented, I couldn't get the idea out of my head...
What if Homemade Stock is THAT much better and why I have I not at least tried it before? What kind of Minimalist Pantry-ist am I if I haven't made one of the most basic pantry staples out there?!
Since this should obviously be of utmost importance on my list of things to do (err....,) early this morning I started making my very first Beef Stock. And as soon as that was finished, I started on the Chicken Stock. (Note: I rarely use Vegetable Stock, but might try a batch later to round out my experiment.) Results will be posted when I'm finished, but in the meantime I thought I'd share some of the process with you.
Here's my preliminary Q+A:
1. What is the difference between broth and stock?
This turned out to be just as confusing as I expected. After reading several different posts on the subject, it seems that from a grocery standpoint, they are often labeled either way. But technically speaking: Stock is usually gelatinous (because it is made from more bone than flesh,) richer and is used as an ingredient. Broth tends to be lighter (it is made from more flesh than bone), saltier and can stand alone. Naturally, the recipes I chose to start with (this one and this one) are labeled "stock" but they seem to be a mix of the two considering the meat to bone ratio. ACKKKK! So... basically I have no idea what the difference is and will continue to use the word interchangeably until someone explains it better.
2. Are all stocks created equally?
TBD. (Do you have a favorite stock/broth recipe? If so, please share!) I searched the internet and ultimately just picked two from Gourmet because I was feeling nostalgic. Ruth Reichl couldn't possibly steer me wrong, right?
3. Will using homemade stock/broth make that big of a difference in recipes?
Also TBD. (I'm guessing it would be more noticeable in something like Chicken Noodle Soup where the broth shines -- but honestly, I have no idea! Conversely, would it change already perfectly good recipes (those in which I use pre-made stock) to something worse? Hmmm.... only time will tell.
4. How much would I need to make to have plenty on hand at all times?
The Beef Stock recipe claimed to make a whopping 8 cups, which wouldn't last long at all! Maybe 2 recipes tops?! The Chicken Stock recipe claims 10 cups. (Still cooling, will report.)
5. How much will it cost vs. purchasing it pre-made?
I normally pay $1.99 for one quart of decent pre-made Chicken and Beef Broth at Whole Foods vs. the $50+/- for today's homemade natural Beef Stock (which included very pricey Veal Shanks, veg, etc.) and $22+/- for this Chicken Stock (including a whole Organic Chicken, veg, etc.). I think it is pretty clear which is cheapest! But will the taste make it worth the $$???
So far, I'm enjoying the experiment and my house smells pretty flippin' fabulous! My husband likened it to a Sunday roast. Unfortunately, it didn't taste like one and I fear that I smell like I've been bathing in meat + veg all day. :) At any rate...
INITIAL RESULTS/REACTIONS: As for the beef stock, I only ended up with 5 2/3 cups. It was easy to make, although it took about 8 hours total and price-wise, it was crazy expensive thanks to the veal! (Maybe we can just use Beef Shank next time?) However, it does look far richer and healthier than my usual WF variety. The chicken stock just finished simmering away on the stove. It was a little easier to prepare because I literally threw everything in the pot and left it for 3 hours. I'm guessing it will likely be the one I'd make again, but I guess we'll have to wait and see until I use them in a couple of dishes for a taste test. Until then...
Stay posted!
13 comments:
Ooo, stocks. IMHO, the answer to most of the "worth it" questions is heck yeah. I've never made beef or veal stock (not used much here), but am super committed to homemade chicken stock. The bones make it something special (rounder mouthfeel), and you can ratchet up the darkness/flavor (pre-roast the ingredients or not) as desired. I usually stash chicken carcasses and all "nasty bits" in the freezer until I'm ready. When I have at least two and no more than four boney birds, I whip out the hugest pots I have and make huge vats of stock (2 carcasses per large pasta pot). The yield is very large and lasts months in the freezer. Homemade makes a simple chicken soup pure magic, pan-sauces effortlessly cling-y, and dishes like risotto dreamy. No strange packaging flavors, just pure, clean taste. I'm a huge stock booster :)
I posted my method a long while back:
http://saltteakandfog.blogspot.com/2010/04/stocking-up.html
A tip from Michael Ruhlman that I haven't tried yet: if your oven will go as low as 170-180, you can bring the stock to a simmer on the stovetop, then pop the whole thing in the oven to steep. No risk of boiling, just super gentle heat.
I love your analysis! I'm really impressed that you started with beef stock. I have only been brave enough to try veggie stock and chicken stock. As Blake said, we save the chicken carcass in the freezer for stock and we always get lots of veggies in our CSA, so starting with these two didn't seem as overwhelming to me. I've always let my husband do all the stock making, so he was quite pleased to have me try it instead! I think I need to get better at making it in order to get the full homemade flavor to make it worth the (albeit minimal) effort. It's just so dang easy to pour in a box or have my husband toil over the stove! Although I think I'll stick with it because I love that we eat food raised by our neighbors, but I want to take it further by making stock with it, too. I'm really trying to stay committed to eating as locally as I can. But the beef stock may take awhile... ;)
A little reluctant to leave a comment, as I'm neither a foodie nor a cook. I'm much more utilitarian in my relationship with food.
That said, your cost analysis seems at least somewhat out of whack, in as much as it appears you purchased stock-specific ingredients. I can't speak as much to the beef stock, but my observation with chicken stock is that it is typically made with the carcass of something left over from another meal (which would otherwise simply be discarded). The veggies may not be "free" in the stock recipe, but the meat/bones should be.
love this post, and your analysis.
i do the same as blake (and totally agree with her in that it does make a noticeable difference). i rarely buy the meat just to make the stock... with the exception of turkey stock, which i'll buy wings/turkey parts in advance (prior to thanksgiving) and make/freeze stock to use for the gravy and the stuffing.
i found it very confusing in the beginning- so many different recipes, and i never seemed to have as much "parts" (pound-wise) on hand as required. The recipes all seemed overly complicated... as if you need to go out and buy the ingredients just to make stock... which i didn't want. i just wanted a recipe on how to do so with the extra ingredients- the leftover carcass, the ends of veggies, etc.
the one i found to be the most basic/simple is this- http://www.marthastewart.com/355586/basic-chicken-stock but only after reading many more detailed/complicated ones which helped me in knowing what else i can add... how much water to use... highly concentrated vs. less cooking time/more water... how little meat/bones can i use without making it too bland... etc.
why do i always feel the need to write novels in your comment section??
I agree that it would be more economical if I had carcasses and bones saved up. Unfortunately we very rarely roast birds/boney beef around here, so I needed to find a recipe that involved purchasing the ingredients. I had NO IDEA that Veal Shanks cost as much as they did or I would've used a different recipe. All that said, I would like to try making Chicken Stock from a leftover carcass. Guess it's time for another Zuni Chicken. :)
Thanks for sharing your favorite recipes! I will definitely try them.
PS. Kate: I LOVE that you can eat locally and from your neighbors. That is awesome!
I love making stock. One of my favorite things to do in the kitchen actually! Totally and completely worth it. It is a LOT more expensive in my experience and it takes time (though hands-off) and I can never have enough on hand (so I also use that Better than Bullion stuff which is probably not the greatest but it works in a pinch). Most supermarket stuff just tastes weird to me.
But I think one of the best things about stock made from bones is the health aspect of it. Bones have all the good stuff and broth out of a carton isn't made with bones. Have you read Healing Traditions? (I can't remember if we've talked about it.) You would totally dig it.
nice blog ... :-)
I love it. Great post as usual, Kim.
Of course you know I think it's worth it. The expense does suck. If I had room I would get a freezer and share a cow with another family, but I live/work in 900 sq ft, so a freezer isn't happening.
The bones are super good for you and you can't beat the flavor. You want it to be more jelly if you can. Sometimes I cook my beef bones for 24 hours.
Grass fed beef is a must. I just read a pretty good article on why it's so important (other than the environment, factory farming cost over the long run). It has to do with the omega 3 to omega 6 ratio (omega 6 heavy, frequently higher than 1:20) and beef stock as I'm sure you found out is super fatty. So you want it to have the best fat profile you can get, which grass fed does.
I'm rambling, so I'll stop now.
P.S. You can get bones in the freezer at WF and it's a lot cheaper than doing shank. Also sometimes when i do meat with the bones I cook until the meat is broken down to what I want for another recipe and let the bones continue.
You will be addicted now. Recipes may be helpful to get a sense of it in the beginning, but really, stocks are authentically themselves when you make them as they once were- a way to save all the nutrients available in foods we may not normally have cooked to eat. So it should be a huge budget help.
Onion skins, carrot tops, chicken bones. Save all those things in the freezer in a big jar until we have enough and then go for it. Making a both/stock should almost be free and is most definitely worth the effort. More nutrients, less packaging, and makes the house smell lovely.
A big pot of it is easy to freeze. Sometimes I even process it in canning jars if I have no freezer room (and since we have so many lying around). It's great to have. Prepare to have your life changed.
@Desi and @Herself - Thank you so much for your input and suggestions. I really prefer the idea of it being mostly free. Will have to work on that.
i love you! you make me think about what i do in my kitchen, home and to my self.
I've made chicken stock but not beef. Now you've challenged me to do so.
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